Wind Damage Roof Insurance Claims (A Guide On What To Do)

Published Oct 16, 20
5 min read

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When roof shingles are not set up appropriately, you might find that they raise up, leakage, or perhaps fall off during the next windstorm. This type of error can cost you more money in the long-run. There are likewise particular security concerns to be familiar with when carrying out Do It Yourself roofing system repair work.

A roofing repair work can end up being much more harmful if you attempt to perform a repair work when it is windy, rainy, or when the roofing is slick with damp leaves or particles. Transporting heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can also present a security hazard. Other safety concerns originate from the use of unknown materials or devices.

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When you choose to go the Do It Yourself route with your roofing system repair work, you not only run the risk of losing money however likewise your valuable energy and time. Replacing shingles on your roof is effort that can take hours or perhaps days, depending upon the degree of the damage. As the products are big, heavy, and challenging to navigate, changing roofing shingles can be difficult on the body.

It can be annoying to find loose shingles thrown about your backyard after a storm. However, this is a common issue that has a relatively simple fix. If your roof remains in otherwise great condition, just the harmed area itself can be replaced to prevent water from seeping under the nearby shingles.

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To learn more on how to repair roofing system shingles blown off by a storm or to schedule a roof examination, contact our professional roofing repair work contractors at Beyond Exteriors today. architectural roof shingles.

There are 2 techniques by which shingles are connected to a roofing system: roof nails or adhesive strips. Usually roof nails have brief shanks, sharp points, and wide, flat heads that allow them to permeate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when connected, develops a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle beneath it.

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It's excellent that the roofing system is not dripping (you didn't discuss that) but improper installation will create leaks in the future. So, confirming a couple of crucial items and then officially notifying your home builder (by licensed, return invoice mail) of inaccurate setup will secure your rights. I 'd check the following: Variety of nails in each shingle: Each roof manufacturer requires a particular number of nails into each shingle, generally 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 miles per hour winds would require 5 nails per shingle.) You'll discover this information on each wrapper around each bundle of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can find it on the maker's site. If you do not know the name of the manufacturer, call the home builder. Nail Positioning: I see this incorrect on a great deal of tasks.

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Nails must be above the top of the eliminated in the 3-tab shingle, but about 1" below the mastic strip. A lot of roofers wish to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for two reasons: a) it misses the shingle directly below, so there are only 4 nails holding the shingle on the roof rather of 8 nails, and b) it creates a little dip in the shingle since it triggers the shingle to bend down over the top edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is putting a quarter size dab of roofing mastic "by hand" under each shingle. However, the majority of roof makers need hand tabbing "if the shingles have actually not self-sealed in an adequate time." This is a bit arbitrary, however "enough time" indicates "within the warranty duration." (You can get that validated by the roof maker.) So, the way to test this is to go up on the roofing system and try to raise a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (house shingles).

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The roofing contractor will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That indicates they anticipate the sun heating the shingle up until it sticks to the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it may not get warm enough in your location or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

Many roofers will extend that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That gives the opportunity for the wind to lift more of the shingle and creates incorrect nailing, (missing the top of the lower shingle, and so on) Too except nails: Nails should entirely permeate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roof sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I think.

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